The Time Bum is all about affordable watches. I try to keep my reviews
focused on watches under $1,000. I have even featured watches that cost
less than fifty bucks. So why am I posting a review of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duo? How can I justify reviewing a watch that currently lists for nearly $10,000? Who do I think I am? Well,
I'll tell you: I'm a watch nerd with a glorious masterpiece of a watch
in my hot little hands! Look at it. Seriously, just look at it. How the
hell could I not review it?
Before we get rolling, a little bit of disclosure is in order. This is not a new Reverso, but an estate piece purchased from Radcliffe Jewelers
of Towson, Maryland. This particular watch was produced in 2003 and may
best be described in used car terms as "one owner, low miles." It
appears to have been purchased by a collector and worn infrequently if
at all. There is not a mark on it. Even so, its pre-owned status meant
it was significantly less expensive than the new Reversos in the case
nearby. Like other vintage watches from Radcliffe, it
has been professionally serviced and carries a 12-month warranty. In
this light, you could consider it a bargain, albeit a bit pricier than
my usual fare.
Also, this is not my watch. It merely passed through my hands on its way
to its rightful owner, a good friend who is at long last enjoying his
well deserved "grail watch" — the one we covet from afar for years,
always telling ourselves, "One day..." But before it went home with him,
I got to play with it.
The Reverso dates back to 1931. The unique flip case was designed for
polo players to protect the watch crystal from impact. Why you would
need to check your watch in the heat of a match is another story, but
the sliding hinge was a delightful curiosity. Many Reversos throughout
the years have sported a range of decorations on the flip sides of their
dials, from simple monograms, to intricate illustrations, to tiny
enamel paintings. Remarkably, was not until 1994 that the first dual
dial or "Duoface" model was introduced.
The Reverso is the quintessential Art Deco watch, a streamlined celebration of Machine Age luxury. The case is a slim, polished stainless steel rectangle only
26mm wide, 42mm long, and just over 9mm thick, with rounded sides and
three channels above and below the dial, beyond which it tapers steeply
to its short lugs. Of course, when I say "the case" I am talking about a
two part unit. The movement
and dials are housed in the rectangular center section, which in turn
fits into a frame between the lugs. The flipping mechanism is
ingenious. Simply
press the case at the end opposite the crown to pop it free, It travels
along a channel inside the frame. While the dial makes its journey, you
can take in the engine turned finish on the broad inner surface of the
frame. At the end of the track, flip it over and snap it down. A pair of spring loaded ball bearings locks it in place.
Both dials marvelously detailed and protected by sapphire crystals. The
first dial is a silvery white with applied black Arabic numerals, an
index inside, and a rectangular small seconds dial at 6 o'clock. The
rectilinear lines of the case are mirrored in the stepped dial, framing
the index and sub dial. Art Deco details abound here as well, in the
diamond texture at the center of the dial, the beading at the outer
edge, and the delicate serifs on the 1930s typeface. The baton hands are
heat blued for a dark, metallic tone.
The second dial reverses the design in more ways than one. It is black
with white numerals and the diamond texture is now on the outer section
of the dial. Hard angles are replaced by a circular dial and sub dial,
both delineated by a smooth ring filled with an intricate reducing swirl
pattern. The hands are polished swords filled in white lume. The
24-hour sub-dial is oriented with 6 AM at top center so daylight hours
or on the right side, night time on the left.
A single, hand wound movement runs both dials. The JLC calibre 854 beats
21.6k times per hour and has a 45-hour power reserve. You set the time
on the primary, white dial. The reverse dial may be set the same and
used for its alternative style alone, or it may be set to a different
time zone by depressing a button at 2 o'clock to advance the hour.
On the wrist, it is comfortable and rather discreet, but is still
clearly a man's watch. While the dimensions seem tiny on paper, they are
far more robust in life. I have found that when considering a square or
rectangular watch, the length is far more accurate guide to size than
the width. The Duo's 42mm lug to lug and 9mm thickness gives it more
than sufficient presence on wrists over 7" – but not too much. This is a
dress watch, after all. On my skinny 6.5" it looked perfectly
appropriate for a modern watch, which is to say just slightly larger
than a traditional size (the original 1931 Reverso was just 24x36x6),
but not comically large. This one was fitted with an excellent, caramel
colored, ostrich skin strap and secured with a signed deployant clasp.
The
Reverso Duo is elegant, yet masculine. You could pair it with a tuxedo
for special events, a suit during the workweek, and even a blazer on the
weekend without looking fussy. As glamorous as it may be, this was
originally a sports watch as its clean lines and purposeful proportions
will attest. Of course "once" is the key word here. The Duo does not
offer the protection of the single face models, and frankly, I wouldn't
subject any of them to a whack from a polo ball. Water
resistance is a merely splash proof 3 ATM, a reminder that despite its
hard-charging history on the field, the Reverso is really best suited to
the sidelines.
I don't poke my head above the $1,000 mark too often, and certainly not
this far, but when I do, I expect to be impressed. The Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso Duo does not disappoint. It is classically elegant, and
beautifully finished. While the sliding hinge is a marvel on all Reverso
models, I regard it as a novelty on the single face versions;
undoubtedly clever but lacking any real purpose. The Duo's dual time
capability changes this by turning a mere parlor trick into a useful
feature, and damn if it does not good doing it. I was blown away by the
Reverso Duo. It is yet another addition to my ever increasing grail
list. As Ferris Bueller said of the Ferrari, "If you have the means, I
highly recommend it." I would just suggest that the true Bums look for a
minty pre-owned example from a reputable dealer. Even grails get better
when you find a good deal.
Pro: Outstanding reversing case mechanism.
Con: Well beyond the Bum-friendly price...
Sum: ... but worth every penny. The Time Bum highly approves.
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